Took bloody ages to load. Why is it in flash? I don't get it. Even if you design static pages in flash (

), why didn't you just take a screenshot and upload that?
Nice colours for a trek type site - greens make sense. I'd change the colour of the 'older articles' and 'trekker diaries' headings though.
I don't think it looks too cluttered as it's in clearly defined sections. There's two 'quick news' boxes.